In his early career, Shaun Leane made a notable shift from goldsmith to silversmith while working with McQueen, leading to a departure from the fine details of his traditional training to embrace larger, more dramatic pieces.

His 1996 creation for McQueen’s Dante show, the Crown of Thorns, stood out as a masterpiece of silver craftsmanship, blending intricate delicacy with a strikingly bold presence. This piece, a tribute to Leane’s Irish Catholic roots and his desire to create breathtaking jewellery, captivated audiences with its powerful religious symbolism. Its impact not only became a highlight of the show, held in a candle-lit church in Spitalfields, but also inspired Leane's subsequent 'Rose Thorn' collection. The Crown of Thorns eventually earned a place in the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.